Wooden Kitchen Design Ideas |Welcome to the blog, within this occasion I am going to demonstrate in relation to Wooden Kitchen Design Ideas
This is Wood U Make It. So, the kitchen I've been working on is coming along nicely. You may have seen the corner cabinet already. and now I have all the other cabinets installed. The appliances are in, so really I'm just waiting for the. countertop to be delivered which should be the end of next week. This is a relatively small kitchen built in the 1950s. and I want to make the most of the space that I have available to me.
So, over here on this wall, I'm gonna build a countertop-height bar that can be used. as an additional countertop and also as a place to eat. But before I get started I want to show you this really cool watch that I just got from a company called Jord. It's a it's an all-wood watch so it's really appealing to me as a woodworker. It comes packaged in this Spanish cedar box. so when you open it it smells amazing!.
And the lid is secured in place with these rare earth magnets so it just snaps in place. And down in the bottom there's a little drawer and there's a little container of mineral oil with a brush. on the end of it that they provide you so that you can take good care of the watch. They have multiple styles and multiple types of wood. This is stacked sandalwood. and it's got a pretty simple face -- it's a style that I like.
If you're interested in getting one of these as a gift or for yourself Jord is offering. a limited time offer discount and I'll put a link in the description down below. And they're also offering a limited time giveaway,. so if you enter the competition you may be able to win one of these watches. So... let's get started!.
What I'm doing here is I'm orienting the grain so that the top surface will be. opposing the bottom surface. That will help to prevent warping. Now I'm marking the board so I don't get them mixed up. I'm writing "G" for the glue side and I'm. marking the edges to be inside touching the jointer fence or outside away from the fence. That way, when I put them back together, I'm sure to get a perfect 180 degrees along that glue line. This is Goncalo Alves also commonly known as tiger wood.
It was on sale and it's surfaced on all four sides. Next I'll run the jointed edge along the fence. and I'll run it through the table saw to clean up the other edge. Now I'm marking how I'm going to route the back edge. I want to mark it on the piece of wood so that I don't get things mixed up. I'm using a 3/4 inch double flute straight router bit and I'm gonna do this in multiple passes. The first pass won't be quite as deep and this will be along the back edge.
I found that when passing tiger wood through the router bit,. I was getting quite a bit of tear-out but I wasn't too concerned because. this is all going to be concealed along the back edge of the tabletop. Next, I'm lowering the router bit and I've also moved the fence farther away from the bit. Now I'm ready for the second pass.
I don't want to go all the way to the. end of the wood because the mounting system is going to be concealed so I have some strips of blue tape mounted on the router table just to guide me where. to position the piece when I'm starting and finishing. Now I'm moving the fence away one more time to do the third and final pass.
I didn't have to be very precise with my router positioning because I'm. going to custom fit the strip of wood that's going to fit into this slot. So, I'm just measuring the dimensions now to be able to cut a strip to fit that. I probably could have used biscuit joints to help align everything but it didn't. seem to be necessary because this wood was really nice and flat and with the. cauls it was going to press everything into alignment anyway. Goncalo Alves (or tiger wood) comes from Central and South America and it's a very hard wood.
Just to put it in perspective, hard maple has a Janka hardness rating of about 1400 to 1500. and tiger wood has a Janka hardness rating of 2,100. So, this is kind of embarrassing. While the glue was drying I went to the gym. and while I was on the treadmill I realized I'd made a mistake with the. glue-up. The issue is when I glued up I put glue on the edge here but I forgot to put glue on the edge on the top piece. So, if there's any wood movement, this. piece is going to expand and contract and it's going to open up along the supposed glue line.
So, I'm gonna have to run this through the table saw,. cut this apart and re-glue it up. Now I'll just quickly glue it together again. This glued up really nice and flat so it didn't really need a lot of sanding. just to take out a little bit of unevenness and some of the glue residue. At this point, the wood weights about 90 pounds so is a little hard to manage.
Now I'm running it through the table saw to clean up the outside edge. Now, with the track saw, I will off each end to get a clean cut and to shorten the countertop. to be exactly 60 inches or 5 feet. I want to cut a curve along the left end so that it doesn't restrict entry into the kitchen. So I'm just positioning a piece of string further away from the countertop and. then I'm going to use a pencil to draw a curve.
This piece of wood is so thick and so hard that it took me a full five minutes with the jigsaw to cut the curve. And then I'm finishing up with a belt sander to make it nice and smooth. Now I'm using a 1/4" round over bit on the top and bottom surfaces. and I'm doing the three edges that are exposed and leaving the back edge untouched. because that's going to go directly against the wall.
Next, I'm sanding it with a random orbit sander to remove any of the marks left by the drum sander. To finish the countertop, I'm going to start with a coat of dewaxed shellac. to seal everything up and then I will apply several coats of polyurethane. I decided to spray this on so I didn't have to deal with brush marks.
Now I'm gonna cut the mounting rail that will be mounted to the wall and then insert it into the slot at the back of the table. I'm cutting the width of the board and then I'm using my dado set to cut a rabbet along the top and bottom. and that will fit into the groove. Now it's time for the installation.
I want this to be countertop height, which is 36 inches, and I have some 34 inch. hairpin legs so I'm measuring the exact height that I need so that everything will be level. I'm marking the stud locations. I have three studs that I can use. Next, I'll drill pilot holes for each of the screw locations and then I'll screw it into the studs. I'm measuring the hairpin legs to be one and a quarter inches away from the. edge of the countertop and then I'll attach it with four screws.
And here comes the test to see if it all fits. And, thankfully, it does fit. I'm drilling pilot holes along the back edge for each of the screws that I'm. going to drill up from the bottom into the mounting strip. And that's pretty much it.